Trip Review: Laguna 69
Skip to the end if you want the nitty gritty details of the hike. Start here if you want story time.
When Leah and I were in Lima, Peru, we didn’t know where we were heading next. Ecuador? Columbia? We weren’t sure which mode of transportation we would take even if we knew where we were going. Leah opened up a map and started looking at cities in a general North/ Northwest direction from Lima. This is how she found Huaraz, Peru.
Huaraz, which sits at 10,000ft above sea level, is a 7 - 8 hour, northbound bus ride from Lima. It’s a friendly mountain-town that is every hiker’s dream. We booked a private room at Andescamp Hostel. I highly recommend this lodging option. The common room was always bustling with hikers full of good advice. The owner of Andescamp gave us more than enough info on the many hiking/ tour options in the area. I must note, our room did have a funky smell to it, but it was nothing we couldn’t handle for a few days.
Huaraz, Peru
Huaraz sits on the west side of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range. The Huarascan National Park covers most of this range and contains endless options for bus tours, climbing, and hikes that range from a few hours to an entire week. We didn’t have an exact plan, but we knew we wanted to tour Laguna 69 because of pictures we’d seen, and Pastoruri Glacier because of the insane altitude (17,200ft).
Unfortunately, Leah didn’t feel well the first few days in Huaraz. This could have been from street food we ate in Lima, or the altitude of Huaraz or both. Either way, we spent a lot of time in our hostel room the first two days. Thank you, Netflix and a paperback copy of Lord Of The Rings for helping us pass the time. Sitting in our room those days was probably a blessing in disguise as we got to acclimate to the elevation.
On day 2, we booked a tour to Pastoruri Glacier for day 3. On day 3, we booked a tour to Laguna 69 for day 4. We made these reservations with the owner of our hostel.
DAY 4: We woke up at 4:30am to be ready for the 5am bus. We wore warm, layered clothing. We read enough to know that this hike could bring any type of weather. We packed a bag full of snacks and water as well. You do not want to be that dork who begs others for food or water on the hike. Our hostel was awesome and had a simple and delicious breakfast ready for us early in the morning. As we waited for the bus, the tour assistant met us at the hostel and had us walk a few blocks to meet the bus where it was waiting for other people as well. We spent the next 15 minutes picking up other hikers at various hostels.
The entire ride took about 3 hours on a nice charter bus. About 3/4 of the way, we stopped for a 30min breakfast and coffee break. This breakfast is not included in the price of the tour. There was also a small shop where you could buy any last minute snacks, water, or coca leaves to help with altitude sickness. A short way further, we stopped at Chinancocha, a lake almost as blue as Laguna 69, but not surrounded by the fascinating, snow-capped, grey mountain peaks. It’s still a great photo opportunity. From there, it wasn’t much further to the trail head of Laguna 69. FUN FACT: The lake was named “69” because before the national park was created in 1975, it was not one of the named lakes in the area. All of the unnamed lakes were given numbers so that they could be listed as parts of the new national park.
Lake Chinancocha
OK, OK, OK. Laguna 69. The trail head sits at 13,000ft. The trail to the lake is 4.2 miles (7k) long as it climbs more than 2,000ft to 15,125ft at it’s highest point. Here is the journal entry I wrote on the bus ride home from the hike:
We hiked Lake 69! It was so hard and awesome. 3 sections; Flat, incline, and INCLINE! The last kilometer was very slow and labored. We would walk for 60 - 90 seconds and then take a quick break. Amazingly blue water surrounded by tall grey mountain sides. Looks almost like a magical rock quarry. Huge snowy mountain peaks above. We rested on the rocks and listed to the loud cracks of snow breaking apart on the peaks. We met Stephanie from Zurich and hiked down together, sharing travel stories. She wants to hash. Leah and I both shat outside before getting back on the bus. Mine was an EMERGENCY!
Don’t you worry about the pooping part, it probably isn’t important when it comes to this hike. But then again, maybe it is. All you need to worry about is enjoying these amazing views. I’m not going to give all the details of the trail itself because everyone will experience it differently depending on their expectations and fitness level. Be prepared for all weather. Bring plenty of water and snacks. Bring sunscreen. If you normally hike with intense boots and hiking poles, then do the same thing here. I did the trail in running shoes, jeans, and a few different T-shirts and was comfortable the whole time. Just take it easy and enjoy the journey.
Nitty Gritty Details
Tour Cost: S/.30.00 ($9.06) per person through Andes Camp Hostel
National Park Fee: S/. 30.00 ($9.06) per person-paid on bus
Start Time: 5am in Huaraz
Return Time: 7pm in Huaraz
Hike Distance: 8.5 miles (14k) round trip
Elevation Gain: 2,125 ft (13,000 - 15,125)
Hike Time Up: 2.5 - 3 hours
Leisure Time At The Lake: 90 minutes
Hike Time Down: 1.75 - 2.5 hours
10/10. Do recommend. 5 Stars. 2 Thumbs Up. Jazz Hands.
-Tyler
