How WE did Iceland
This is not a guide for how YOU should experience Iceland. This is a rundown of the places WE went, things WE saw, money WE spent, and how WE got around.
The year was 2019, the month was May. WOW airlines screwed us out of a flight by going bankrupt two months before our trip, but we didn’t let that stop us. We spent a little more money and bought new tickets via Iceland Air. My sister, Jenna, and her friend, April, were going to be in Iceland at the same time to attend some sort of hair convention or conference or nonsense. The 4 of us would be spending 4 days together.
We decided to rent a camper van to drive and live in for the 4 days. A little bit of research led us to believe that would be the cheaper, most convenient route. After a few googles, we landed on KuKu Campers. We chose a 5-person van for 4 nights. The total rental cost for 4 nights was $648.14. We landed in Keflavik, Iceland at 6am and had to wait until 9am for KuKu to open and come pick us up in their free shuttle. Check in was simple and we bought a few extras like windshield damage insurance and an extra power outlet for the van (which we forgot to actually take with us.) The van was easy to drive (if you can drive a manual) and came equipped with a sink, fridge, gas camping stove, table, cooking utensils, sleeping bags, pillows, blankets, and heater. See below for a list of other rental companies you can compare.
We met Jenna and April in Reykjavik and strolled around town for an hour or so and then hit the open road. With only 4 days to travel, we knew we couldn’t go too far. We decided to stay on the south part of the island and see as much as time would allow. Our first stop was Reykjadalur, a hot spring river. This was a great stop! The entire river was hot hot hot! Too hot at times. From the parking lot, we hiked up up up some dirt trails following the river. Bubbling hot pots and smelly, billowing steam clouds are around every turn. We saw a few signs warning hikers where they SHOULD NOT get in the water as it was measured above 100 degrees celsius, AKA melt-your-face-off hot! A series of wooden walkways and privacy barriers for changing clothes let us know we made it to a popular entry point. A handful of others were already soaking in the water, but there was a long length of river to use so nobody felt crowded. I highly suggest this stopping point on your trip.
That night we parked our van at Stokkseyri, a campsite we found on the app iOverlander. No matter how you camp, it costs roughly $11.50 per person. They accepted credit cards as well. They have proper bathrooms and big sinks for washing dishes. You can also pay extra for showers and laundry, but we preferred to be smelly. The BEST part of this campground is the nearby, friendly ponies. Walk over to the fence and give em a pet.
The next morning, we drove to Seljalandsfoss and Glufrafoss. Pro tip: ‘foss’ at the end of a word means it’s a waterfall. Also, we renamed these falls ‘S’ and ‘G’ waterfalls. Make sure you park in the lot directly off the highway. This lot is FREE. There are a few parking lots closer to the falls, but you must pay to be there. The walk from the free lot to the falls is a half a mile or shorter. You will definitely want a poncho or some water-resistant gear if you want to be up close. You can walk up to and behind the first fall. It only takes a few minutes to walk from the first fall to the second, which hides inside of tall canyon walls. Like the hot springs river, this is a tourist attraction, so you won’t be the only one there, but it wasn’t so many people that it bothered us or took away from the experience or photos.
Next up, Skogar and Skogafoss. In the little village of Skogar, you can see some picturesque houses that have grass-covered roofing. Skogafoss waterfall is nearby and is one of the biggest falls in Iceland. Do yourself a favor and hike up the stairs to get the view from the top. It really is spectacular. Once you’re at the top, you can continue walking on a nice dirt trail to see more of the river that leads to the falls.
That night, we pulled our Cat Van into the village of Vik and stayed at an established campground (‘Vik i Myrdal’ on the iOverlander app). Well, it looks established, but nothing was open, so we didn’t pay to stay here, so we had no access to water or bathrooms. Luckily, there is an outfitting store across the street with good clean bathrooms and wifi. While you’re in Vik, go see Reynisfjara. This is an awesome wall of basalt stacks surrounded by a black-sand beach. Also, do some research on basalt stacks or columns; it’s pretty neat.
Skaftafell Wilderness area was one of my favorite places. We paid roughly $8 to park in this National Park. They have nice bathrooms and plenty of information on the many hiking options in the area. Svartifoss is one of the most popular attractions here and it’s for a good reason. This beautiful waterfall is only a 30-45 minute hike, although it’s all uphill, and the water pours over a cliff made of basalt columns. From there, we decided to hike one of the loop tracks back to the parking lot. We chose to go east to Skaftafellsjokull. It was an easy hike and landed us on a cliff’s edge, overlooking a huge glacial tongue which is part of Iceland’s biggest ice cap. Freakin cool, right?! We did a total of 5.25 miles on that hike and it took us about 3 hours.
After that adventure, we had to start heading back west because Jenna and April had a flight back home the next day.
This time, we went back to the S&G waterfalls to camp. This is a great, established campground with a building containing a kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry. We showed up after reception had closed and left before they opened, so we didn’t actually pay, but I don’t recommend trying that. This campsite has one of the best sounds to doze off to, and best views to wake up to. It seriously sits directly in front of the ‘S’ fall. On iOverlander, the site is ‘Seljalandsfoss Waterfall’.
That’s it for story telling, but I’ll list the other notes I jotted down along the way!
Apps and websites to use:
iOverlander: Camping locations
XE Currency: Money conversion rates
Maps.Me: Downloadable maps
www.Vedur.is: Weather
www.road.is: Road conditions
www.inspiredbyiceland.is: All things Iceland
www.Hotpot.com: Hot springs sites
General notes:
We never used cash. EVER. Rack up those miles and use your plastic.
Bonus is the best grocery store.
Cafe Petite in Keflavik is way cool and delicious.
Drive on the right hand side of the road.
Diesel fuel was roughly $1.87 per LITER
Weather gave all four seasons each day. Be prepared.
Camper van options:
Here is a brief list of what some common items cost. Prices in $USD.
Water airport $1.63
Pizza slice x3 airport $7.33
Groceries: half loaf bread, energy drink, peanuts $10.26
Gas: half tank $102.27
Coffee x2 $7.36
Parking - Skaftafall $8.17
Gas: half tank $95.17
Fish 'n' Chips $15.39
Coffee - Cafe Petite $3.27
Campground: Reykjavik $39.29
Campground: Stokkseyri (2 people) $22.99
Groceries: water x2, Pretzels, bread $13.29
KuKu camper add-ons (insurance, charger) $50.46
Groceries: Ramen, apples, cheese, meat, sauce $41.33
Bathroom $1.63
Make sure to look at the photos AND video below.
Now go and enjoy Iceland!
Tyler
