The Grand Canyon

Brrrrr. Ouch. Hot Hot Hot. Ouch. Ouch. Ouch.

On 5/4/18 Leah and I drove northwest towards the south rim of the Grand Canyon. We stopped just outside of the Grand Canyon National Park gates and camped along a gravel road. We met a group of friends there and quickly had some grub, a drink, and went right to bed. We were very aware that the journey down into the canyon and back out was going to be long and hard. 

Our good friend Pete asked us months in advance to join him on this adventure, and complete the day by hiking/running from the south rim, to the north rim, and back to the south rim again. We decided in the weeks leading up to the journey that we were going to downgrade our goal because we were not in the right kind of shape to tackle 50 miles with 14000ft of climbing. We changed our goal to make it from the south rim to Ribbon Falls and back. And we succeeded in that effort. 

We woke up in our tent Saturday morning to a crisp 35 degree temp. I believe we were up before 5am to get the day started. We wanted to get into the canyon before a lot of tourists and mules joined. The heat was another factor. Although it was 35 degrees when we woke up on top of the canyon, the temps at the bottom were supposed to be in the mid 90's. The earlier we got going, the better. We carpooled into the park and, after loosing a few cars due to Pete's speeding, found the visitors lot and a shuttle to drive us to the South Kaibab Trailhead. It was just after 6am when we took our first steps into the canyon. 

I was giddy and ready to start running, but the downhill was very steep and in awkward steps. I ended up doing a mixture of slow jogging and walking depending on the terrain. I was worried that I'd ruin my quads going down all those steps, and have no strength to climb back out that night. It didn't seem like it took long to get to the bottom, the Colorado River. It was still cool and spirits were high. We were very close to our first real stop, Phantom Ranch. By the time we got to Phantom Ranch, most of the crew decided they were going to do the same route as Leah and I; Out to Ribbon Falls and back. Pete and Andy were the exception. They're superhuman and do not follow the normal laws of physics or biology. Therefore, they were going to climb to the north rim and back. 

From Phantom Ranch, we continued along North Kaibab trail. This terrain felt flat compared to the elevation change we started with. It felt good to start running and stretch out the legs. The sun made it's way over the canyon walls and started beating down on us pretty hard a few miles before we got to Ribbon Falls. I was already having anxious thoughts of heat exhaustion during the return trip, and we hadn't even turned around yet. Ribbon Falls really is an amazing oasis in the middle of the otherwise baron desert canyon. We all kicked off our shoes and socks and hung out in the small pool of water at the bottom of the falls. It was freezing cold and very welcome. We hung around long enough to gather the group, soak our shirts, refuel, and relax. Pete made it to the north rim and back down to us at Ribbon Falls. Andy was the only one we were missing. Pete knew Andy was close behind, so the rest of the group got moving in a weak attempt to try and get a head start on the speed demons. 

It was hot now. It was very hot, with very little shade along the trail back to Phantom Ranch. I got in the zone and ran my own pace all the way back to the ranch, stopping once or twice to soak my shirt and hat in a cold steam. Thinking back, I wish i would have slowed down a bit and taken in the scenery and experience more than I did during that segment. Once back at Phantom Ranch, it was time to relax once last time before making the climb back up the south rim.  The whole group stopped, enjoyed the small general store located there, and even had a beer or some ice cream to lift our weary spirits. Julian found out here he hadn't fueled properly, because his skin turned to a ghostly white color, and then he passed out for a moment while in line to get lemonade. We got him lots of salt and fluids and the color came right back, and he acted as if nothing had happened. He's a trooper. Andy did catch back up to the group at this point, so we were whole again. The way I remember it, Leah had to drag me away from the coolers holding the icy beer. 

The way out. Ugh. We were head up a different trail than we originally came down. The Bright Angel Trail is a little longer than the South Kaibab Trail, but it's not nearly as steep, so it was worth the trade when you're on  already-wobbly legs. The thing is, it was much, much 'longer' than the original 'longer' Pete had told us about. We should have known better. It seemed like every mile or two that we made it, Pete would update us with the mileage remaining, and that number was never decreasing. The last 5 miles of this hike was beyond exhausting. I had to adopt the mentality of 'one foot in front of the other' for the last few miles. It didn't help that I could see the trail's switchbacks ahead, climbing up to what I thought was the top. I saw many false tops, and was heartbroken each time. When we were about 1/4 mile from the end, I told Cisca to push me over the edge, into the canyon, to my sure death. I knew that would be easier than walking the last 1/4 mile!

Well, we made it. It was after dark, maybe 8pm by the time we were out. All of us made it out alive. Not all of us were as miserable as I was. Ilija met me at the top and was in very high spirits and told me about his burst of energy towards the end and how he ran a pretty quick pace all the way out, passing people left and right. Damn him!

We did have a casualty that day. Pete came prepared to cook us all a feast when we returned to camp. Pete also left all of the steak and chicken out to thaw while we hiked. Pete got back to camp to find animals had eaten all of his meat. It was a very sad moment. Carryout pizza from somewhere in Tusayan saved the day.  After a few slices and some whiskey, I was back in the tent and dead asleep. 

We were with such an amazing group of friends that day. I think it was a roller coaster of a day for everyone, but we all stayed positive, enjoyed the journey, and became better friends through the process. Someday I'll go back and tackle the entire thing. 

I believe the insane pair of Pete and Andy got 50 miles that day, and the rest of us got 34.  

Make sure you check out our page of pictures, or our Instagram page to see the magnificent views that we saw. 

 My legs still hurt. 

Tyler